Not by choice, we spent last weekend in a brothel. A real one, no half measures. It all started like this, Jan…

We never planned to go to Mongolia at all. We wanted to drive across China from East to West, across the ancient Silk Road. Two days before we left home, we got an email form the Chinese guiding company NAVO who had agreed to be our hosts [foreign cars are  not allowed into China without special permits and a guide in the car all the time]. NAVO told us we were  not allowed to drive the Silk Road but instead we could only drive south to north, entering from Laos as planned but leaving to Mongolia. We reluctantly agreed. Read the rest of this entry »

Geez was I wrong about China… I realised this yesterday afternoon as I wandered aimlessly through the streets of Xian, roaming, exploring and getting hopelessly lost in this city’s ancient backstreets. I was determined not to pass the same shopfront twice and succeeded in my aim of quickly losing myself and any sense of direction. Read the rest of this entry »

Ah, China! Absolutely stunning scenery, history, food and people. We have dined on eel, glass eggs [somehow the white of the egg is cooked so that it is clear not cloudy....], sliced braised pig ears, tree bark fried with egg [Jack quipps "so they use every part of the dog"], hotpots, drunken chickens, blood sausage of  duck, pork crackling pancakes…  Our guide Tracy delights in taking us to hole in the wall places where you sit in the kitchen with the family and choose what to eat from the buckets on the floor, not a menu. Read the rest of this entry »

Just quickly, as it is late, and I am dog tired. Crossing the land border from Laos was surreal….  the Chinese officials incredibly pleasant and our guide Tracy [it is compulsory if driving in China to have an approved guide in the car at all times] very efficient and cheerful. We have driven through some stunning gorges and scenery, visited several small and large towns, eaten in tiny places where you are sitting in the kitchen with the cook, survived todays shocking roads, axle deep in mud with bogged busses and trucks blocking the road…. we took 5 hours to go about 45ks through the mountains. We are heading to Tiger Leaping Gorge and then the historic towns of Dali and Lijiang. We will put some snapshots on and write properly when there is a moment not used for travelling or sleeping or eating!!!!