I love walking down the ancient cobbled streets of the old city in these two towns, towering 15th centruy city walls to the side and 12th century soaring minarets in the background. Weather beaten intricately carved double doors keep secret the courtyards within, as i wonder who else has wandered along these stones? What scenes have these streets witnessed, what ordinary and extraordinary things have been happening here for literally thousands of years now.

Uzbekistan is as culturally rich and friendly a spot to visit as you can find. Once the infuriating visa system is negotiated [ only Turkmenistan is worse.... but i will spare you all the details]  the rewards are there. We are in Bukhara / Bokhora for a few days while visas are sorted before we can drive to Iran via Turkmenistan. Some interesting political insights, but we will wait until we are in Europe before writing more on that.

Many of the historic sights in both these Silk Road cities have been restored to something approaching their former glory. The effect on visitors is to transport you back to whichever period in the last two thousand years you choose.  Mosaic cladding on soaring minarets, carpet traders in every niche of an ancient meddrasah, torture chambers and steep city walls re all topped off by kebabs at every turn, steaming plov meals, the crispest naan bread and aromatic tea with every meal. Sum-sa potato filled pastry [forgive me if I have mashed the spelling] and Guma - parcels, still warm from the clay oven, filled with a mix of chillie and barley make a great snack while wandering.

But most of all the Uzbeks are very very friendly. We can barely walk ten steps without being asked where we are from, and having the sort of superficial conversation that limited common language restricts you to. And not always in the name of commerce, although that rich tradition is well excercised too. Fake antiques and “hand made by my grandmother” embroidery abounds, as well as exquisite calligraphy and gilt-adorned Koran pages ready for framing.

Turkmenistan may be an internet free zone, and different reports leave me unsure about access to the ‘net in Iran, but we will try to update again soon. And photos may have to wait until we get a speedier connection.

This entry was posted on Monday, November 17th, 2008 at 10:35 pm and is filed under Central Asia. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

23 comments to “Samarqand and Bokhara”

  1. By JENNY CLARK November 18th, 2008 at 11:25 am

    am absolutely loving your diary and drooling over every experience you tell us about
    it is nearly the end of nov. and you will be in london for christmas which means these great stories will come to an end
    i will miss them
    good luck for the remainder of you trip
    Jen

  2. By Natalie November 18th, 2008 at 4:02 pm

    Another interesting and fascinating account Jon. It all reads like a travelogue/come history lesson. The food is exotic sounding. We’re hearing about meat being pumped with water to make it weigh more, hence cost more and you are talking about street vendors selling kebabs and naan breads etc. What a world we live in. My home town is London so will be interested to hear what you have to say about it at christmas time. Happy travels and visa applications. Natalie

  3. By Cathy November 18th, 2008 at 7:51 pm

    I visited Samarkand and Bukhara in 1973 as part of a student trip to the USSR. As a very naive young thing, I was completely overwhelmed by both places. Walking down those narrow lanes, seeing houses opening directly on to the street and always wondering if we were going to be kidnapped (but who would have wanted a rowdy group of Monash students??)was a memory strongly evoked by your descriptions. Our culture shock stemmed from both the remoteness of the place- a 8 hr flight from Moscow on a decrepit Ilyushin- and from the fact we spent our first Christmas away from home visiting a teachers’ College and a carpet factory, and eating strange animal innards made into an inedible soup, washed down with warm “pivo” or beer.
    Enjoy the new “stans”- I’m so envious!

  4. By Peter Barnes November 19th, 2008 at 10:27 am

    Apart from the obvious, I also listen to your weekly reports which are getting briefer by the minute. The Stan’s seem fascinating but slightly worrying with your hand constantly in your wallet to smooth the way or is this not the case.

  5. By Heather Burge November 19th, 2008 at 12:28 pm

    Caught your brief snippet this morning - Absurdistan indeed!

  6. By vicki November 20th, 2008 at 6:22 pm

    ~drooling~
    sighhhhhing…
    ~smiling~
    ahhhhhing

    ~Thanking you~
    X:-) vicki

  7. By Patrick Horton November 20th, 2008 at 10:50 pm

    Don’t become slaves to the tyranny of destination and schedule. The journey is the most important, so relax. This should be the most important journey in your lives. Discover and let your 774 groupies wait a few extra weeks.

  8. By Edward November 22nd, 2008 at 4:56 am

    As u know Natalie the 2 Faines, Jackie snr and Young Jack, won’t need a visa for England — nor other EU nations when travelling on an Oz passport. Might be slightly longer delays at border controls as they’re travelling in their own vehicle.
    The situation at Cairo airport is a little different, though. Shell out $US 15 per person and you get a little visa sticker which is attached to a passport page
    The Egyptian passport control officer then stamps on top of the stuck-on visa and you’re on your way to negotiate the chaotic Cairo traffic (in arguably the world’s most polluted city) via clapped-out taxi or slightly better maintained people mover !

  9. By Natalie November 24th, 2008 at 8:31 am

    Edward, they almost will need a visa for the UK. When I was there in 2000, I found it hard to find my brother amongst the 57 varieties. We shouldn’t use this for the interchange of our personal comments. It’s a big eye opener for me, as I never travelled other than the good old package deal holidays, way back when. Very exotic travel and stories from ‘our’ Faine’s. Think I’m better off in my armchair these days. Natalie

  10. By John Brownlie November 24th, 2008 at 12:35 pm

    Jon & Jack, yours is a wonderful trip and I am enjoying the travelogue. I have a look on my favourites each morning to check your progress.
    Central Asia has always held a fascination for me, and I am envious of your chance to see that part of the world.
    Looking forward to your next report. Travel safely.

  11. By Raoul & Ruth November 24th, 2008 at 7:29 pm

    “…i wonder who else has wandered along these stones?”
    We did. Raoul did so first in 1981 and then again with Ruth in 1985. We marvelled at the sites you described and we enjoyed in large measure the warm hospitality of local Uzbeks. The food, particularly in homes we visited was, as you describe, delicious and wonderful and it seemed a never-ending feast. While reading your account we could smell the foods. Lovely to have our memories refreshed by our intrepid cousins in this way. No doubt you tried to track the paths of our once resident Tashkent relatives, none of whom remained past the early to mid 1990’s. We understand that the tracks are now hard to find.

  12. By Danny, Sandy, Maddy and Raffy November 25th, 2008 at 5:49 am

    Hey Fainers - we’re now officially in Turkey, so get a wriggle on and let’s meet for Raki and salted anchovies!

  13. By Jen November 25th, 2008 at 8:32 pm

    Love your interesting and enlightening mail, makes me feel like I am with you both. However, you don’t mention how you are both feeling - frustrated, happy, thrilled etc.etc. Hope that Jan is managing to keep in touch with you also. Soo looking forward to hearing more of your escapades when you return. In the meantime keep safe and travel safe. Rain in gippsland which was much needed, very dry down here, Dandenongs look lush in comparison. We won the cricket!!!! most important!!!

    Cheers Jen

  14. By Mary Jones November 26th, 2008 at 8:07 pm

    So good to hear you tonight on Dereck’s show. Glad you survived the border crossing. I really can’t imagine how impacting these experiences of travelling can be. I am going to Mexico next March to visit our son, and find the prospect of a different culture rather daunting.
    Take care and travel safely. London, here we come !!!
    Mary

  15. By Yuri November 27th, 2008 at 9:24 am

    You sound a lot less tired than last week .

    I see you’ve driven around Lake Van rather than take the cross-lake ferry from Van to TatVan. I visited that area in 1989 as part of a steam train tour and the after crossing the lake on the train, we headed towards the Iranian border (supposedly closed at the time due to UN embargoes, but passing massively long freight trains going that way anyway) with a full company of Turkish soldiers “protecting” us from Kurdish insurgent activity.

    Travelling through Turkey one comes across towns and rivers that were only names in the pages of the Bible, but actually still exist. No doubt you’ve seen your share of mountains and Turkey will provide more. And Australia is well-known in Turkey (everywhere we went, we’d come across locals who knew someone who lived in Melbourne) - and again everyone is so friendly and generous.

    For those who’ve missed hearing your reports on 774, visit http://rapidshare.com/users/SUGWPA where I’ve placed the last two conversations and will add more as time permits.

  16. By Steve November 28th, 2008 at 9:07 am

    After reading this (Ive only just found your blog), I have definately got the travel bug happening. Thanks

  17. By Christine Crooks November 28th, 2008 at 2:50 pm

    Hi Jon Hi Jack,
    I’m delighted Yuri has posted your reports on rapidshare.I religiously follow your progress from your website but always miss you when you’re speaking on 774.Now I’ve been hearing you,fantastic to hear your voice-you sounded so well!
    I saw Jan yesterday-the 27th-ask her about THE KEY!
    Love to you both-journey well!
    xxoo

  18. By Yuri November 29th, 2008 at 7:57 am

    I’ve now uploaded all the conversations I’ve recorded (from 17 September onwards) to http://rapidshare.com/users/SUGWPA. I missed a couple - power outage killed the PC one week, and Obama getting the Presidential nomination replaced Jon another week.

  19. By jim December 13th, 2008 at 8:38 pm

    Dear J & J, Just got the computer back and missing a fair bit of “stuff”,….its puobably only Claytons. Looks like plenty of reading to catch up on since K.stan. Great to hear no mishaps. Would love to give it a bash however my wife says …find someone else to go with!!!! Does that give me a free leg. Shall catch up along the way, Grey Nomads here we come

  20. By Andiis December 21st, 2008 at 6:23 pm

    Congrats to you guys, and well done. I don’t know what you’ve proven, if anything, but I do know you’ve shown great faith in each other (you made it) and your gear (it made it). Once again goodness triumphs over rottenness, and the nay-sayers can go eat hay. I look forward to the book, seriously, and the huge party the ABC puts on for your return, not seriously. WELL DONE, THOSE MEN!!

  21. By Czaba December 28th, 2008 at 12:11 pm

    Jon, Jon, Jon, come back quickly. Some property developer wants to put a gigantic high-rise overshadowing Melbourne High! We can’t let him.

    We need you on 774 rallying the troops.

    Czaba

  22. By Lois January 1st, 2009 at 7:44 pm

    Helloooo Jon. Are you still in Paris, or have you snuck across the Channel, or are you on a slow boat to Oz?
    Thinking of you.
    Oh, and Happy New Year!
    Lois

  23. By Wendy January 1st, 2009 at 8:08 pm

    Happy New Year!

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