Tashkent, Uzbekistan: China seems years ago. We have been through the modern Chinese city of Urumqi, overnight to Turpan - a welcoming leafy oasis in theTalimankan Desert - and on to Kashgar. The fabled Sunday market was a highlight, amplifying the two Chinas we have seen; the ancient and the ultramodern. Electric scooters zoom past scenes that have not changed in hundreds - thousands? - of years.

Over the spectacular Torugart Pass and into Kyrgyzstan, which greeted us with a snowstorm. A puncture in heavy snow in No-Mans Land made for the quickest tyre change in history. Not sure if it was the minus 8 or the Kalashnikovs that made it so fast, but the removed wheel nuts stuck to the ice even in the eleven minutes it took to get the jack from under all our luggage and get the rear wheel into the air. Naryn is the tiny town first greeting travellers on this remote route into Kyrgyzstan. An almost tropical blue river flows through this farming town, chosen now as the site for a new University, funded by the Agha Khan!!!. Picturesque but so cold…. and on to Bishkek, the capital. Tree lined streets and trolley busses straight from the Soviet era greeted us as we waited for our Uzbekistan visas. We took time too visit the sites, admire the Communist era buildings and statues [ they love a statue] and soak up the market.

From Bishkek, on to more snow covered slippery mountain passes. Kyrgyz drivers treat ice and snow as a game - skating your Lada is regarded as heroic. So many end up in the ditches and sideways, but no one slows down. We spent half an hour trying to pull an old Audi from a snow drift, but nearly ended up stuck ourselves. We needed 4wd many times, and wonder about not carrying chains if this weather persists. Average speed in almost zero visibility and heavy snow 15kph for many many hours to get across the pass and to a bed for the night.

And on to Jalalabad, Osh and the Ferghana Valley. Only a few years ago Uzbeks and Kyrgyz were killing each other here, and the omnipresent military remind everyone at every single intersection. Sadly the weather is dreadful as we approach scenery and views described in all the guide books as spectacular and unmissable. We mised them. Endless passport checks later, we make it to Tashkent, capital of Uzbekistan. The biggest city we have been in for ages, trams and traffic jams and high rise buildings!!! More soviet era architecture, square office and apartment blocks looking like they were designed using Lego!! And falling apart from disrepair.

We have however discovered the best flea market ever… Tashkent on a Sunday boasts the most eclectic collection… but how to get it all back home? From Lenin busts to ancient cameras, embroidered fabrics, ancient weapons, soviet gas masks…. the most wonderful collection of crap and junk the world has ever seen… paradise!!! 

We now wait for visas for Turkmenistan and Iran before we can go to Samarkand, Bukhara, Mary in Turkmenistan and on to Teheran and then Turkey.

 

This entry was posted on Monday, November 10th, 2008 at 11:20 pm and is filed under Central Asia. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

25 comments to “And on to Central Asia… the ’stans”

  1. By DSMR November 11th, 2008 at 6:58 am

    J&J

    We’re getting close to Turkey too. Let us know if we can meet at the crossroads…

    Danny Blay

  2. By Diane Pettigrew November 11th, 2008 at 7:20 am

    Wow, these are places and stories we have only read about, what an amazing achievement to have travelled so far and without too many dramas…I am really in awe of the planning and tenacity you have both shown… will 774 ever be enough of a challenge after this? I certainly hope so and look forward now to 2009!

  3. By Wally November 11th, 2008 at 3:04 pm

    Hi J & J I have just finished reading Danny & Sandy blog around the world and I turned to your blog to catch up to were you are and the first comment is from Danny, I hopeyou do meet up you will have a lot to talk about. I feel like I am in the passengers seat right next to you all the way. enjoying your adventures. Do like Danny & Sandy do If they find an Item of interest that they dont want to shlepp around with them Mail It home and hope that its here when you get back. Keep on treking Wally

  4. By david hardy November 11th, 2008 at 3:24 pm

    How are you guys going timewise relative to your plans to be in London by Christmas ? I presume that your objective was Christmas 2008 and not 2009 !!!! John whilst you might not be missing 774 and us listeners, we sure are missing your prsence on the airwaves ; and eagerly awaiting your return for the next 15 years or so !!!

  5. By Heather Burge November 12th, 2008 at 12:27 am

    Great that you’ve reached the ’stans Jon. Is it not an awesome part of the world? There’s a return trip lurking there to make up for missing the unmissable views of the Pamirs - just a little jaunt back in early summer one year maybe - it’s not far.

  6. By Natalien November 12th, 2008 at 7:10 am

    Hi Jon and Jack
    Wally stole my thunder (above). I was going to say that I, too, am an invisible passenger in your car and lapping up all that you encounter.
    You are having an amazing experience. It all makes my little 2-week package deal holidays to Europe in my teens, like nothing. Though at the time they were an experience to me.

    Am enjoying all your tales immensely. Such interesting parts of the world, which I will never see myself but thanks to you, I’m having mental pictures drawn of all these exotic corners of the world. Thank you.

    Just like another needle stuck in the record, I miss you on 774 and do hope you will be back in ‘09, when you’ve finished the book, docu. film etc etc etc.

    Natalie

  7. By angela November 12th, 2008 at 7:29 pm

    I forgot to say, I do miss you each morning, and really look forward to your brief appearance at around 10.30 ish each Wednesday. Good luck with the rest of the journey, don’t be in too much of a rush that you miss some of the wonders enroute, and once again - enjoy Iran, I hope you love it as much as we did. It just goes to show, you should not believe everything you hear/read in the media!

    Cheers, Angela

  8. By Simon November 12th, 2008 at 11:06 pm

    Hey guys,

    Just thought I’d drop you a quick note to wish you both good luck with the last leg of your journey and to let you know I’ve finally made it to your home town. I even had a nice little win at The Melbourne Cup last week and brought myself a 4×4 as I was jealous of yours.

    Enjoy the Stans,

    Lord Clark
    (Your Anglo-Timorese buddy)

  9. By Edward November 13th, 2008 at 4:58 am

    BECOZ you 2 are on the road so much Jackie Faine (snr) you may have skirted the spivs/touts who hang around so many tourist-y places, like flies.
    Last month (Oct) in Morocco we had to be on guard all the time, and in a few days in Egypt even more so.
    Fortunately we have already booked our Egyptian tour so hopefully will avoid the taxi/hotel/special tours/”I have just the right carpet for you”/ scams which are so prevalent in many, many 3rd world countries
    Okay, so everyone has to make a living but the constant need to remain vigilant becomes very, very wearing after just as short a time as a fortnight

  10. By Jane November 13th, 2008 at 12:02 pm

    Oh yes, I agree with all the above. We miss you on air SOOOOO much. If only you could do the show from the road everyday. Travel well!

  11. By ROBYN November 14th, 2008 at 3:00 pm

    So pleased for you that you made Turpan & the Sunday Mkt in Kashgar. It’s just another world! Hope you saw the scale model of the water system in Turpan. Just think, they used laser technology 1000’s of years ago.
    Aren’t the constant stops to have p/ports etc. checked fun?
    You’ll love Uzbekistan.
    Pity the weather is limiting your views.
    Hair-raising drivers in the ice aren’t they?

  12. By Barbara Paroissien November 14th, 2008 at 6:23 pm

    We are living in Paris this year - it could not be further from your travels in Central Asia. and very much enjoying your journey and adventures - and looking forward to 774 next year - with a 10 hour time difference now, I listen to Red at 8pm at night - not quite the same!!
    Barbara Paroissien

  13. By Di November 14th, 2008 at 8:01 pm

    Hi Jon and Jack,

    Hope you’re safe and well and not too cold. We heard you on the radio after you’d passed through No Man’s Land and into Kyrgyzstan. My son who’s four and always calls you ‘my Jon Faine’ (he has a pretend office all his own where ‘my Jon Faine’ works) was most concerned about your puncture. He wanted to know if your car would make it to London now. I said it would and you had lots of spare tires. Hope it’s true!

    Enjoy the rest of your journey, travel safe and we look forward to hearing you again soon.

    Cheers, Di

  14. By Ildar November 15th, 2008 at 3:26 am

    Hi Jon and Jack! I’ve seen you & your car today in the center of Tashkent. I wish you a good luck on your way to London, have a nice time in Samarkand and Bukhara!

  15. By Campbell November 15th, 2008 at 7:44 am

    Your description of the flea market in Tashkent just made me think to remind you… The Bendigo swap-meet is on this weekend :-)

  16. By Deb Hallam November 16th, 2008 at 1:44 pm

    Hi Jon,
    Sounds as though you are really having the time of your life. I catch you sometimes on a thursday morning when you check in wiht whomever is holding down the fort for you at the time. Did you factor in the fact that the world as we know it will have changed when you return from your odessy. I mean the US election has changed things a bit and will continue to do so, ANd the Economic situation will have an ongoing effect too.
    Hope that your luck continues to hold and I will enjoy your journey from here as the time goes on.
    Regards Deb H. Beulah Vic Aust

  17. By Mark Brookes November 17th, 2008 at 2:34 am

    Hi Jack and Jon,
    We met in the hostel in Samarkand on the 16th November. It was great to meet some fellow Aussies who are out and about in the world and doing things differently.
    Ironically, I have been the one of 2 Australian’s living in Uzbekistan, and I meet the two of you and while checking out, another 4WD pulls up. They had NSW plates on the car. Sadly though I didn’t have the opportunity to chat with them.

    I know that flea market you mentioned and yes you can get all sorts of crap there. If you needed car parts, they would have had it!! Everything is for sale.

    I hope your travels are safe and full of stories.

    Regards

    Mark
    Mackay, QLD but 3rd year in Tashkent

  18. By Anne Hains November 17th, 2008 at 11:21 am

    Jon, Do you really need any more junk ooh I mean treasures?? Best check with Jan
    Cheers
    Anne

  19. By Ann November 17th, 2008 at 7:53 pm

    Still following you both, it is a great read for the “stay at homes” Hopefully I will be on my way again next year. As Some have been saying, we really miss you on 774 and I guess Jacks’ friends are missing him also.To say nothing of poor Jan.
    Now into November, it won’t be long before Jan will be packing for her Paris trip, if there is still enough in the Kitty for her fare.!
    Must away to look up the latest in the Photo Album. Keep safe and well. Ann

  20. By Raphaël November 18th, 2008 at 7:34 pm

    Hi guys!
    It was a pleasure to meet you in Tashkent. Thanks again for this friendly talk at the restaurant (BTW my friend who was supposed to come was reading a good book and forgot to check her watch!) and for the book.
    I wish you a great trip (and a wonderful Xmas in Paris!)
    See you anywhere (maybe in Melbourne where I hope I’ll go back soon)
    Cheers
    Raph

  21. By vicki November 20th, 2008 at 6:16 pm

    Ahh ye ole flea market the same the world over… nice X;-)

  22. By Deb November 24th, 2008 at 8:52 am

    You make me wanna run out and have a kid and buy a Pajero, forget the 19 year wait and the fact I’m 54 as of last week!

    My trip to Eastern Europe (back last week) for a book launch about the history of the Adler family in the province of Schaumberg in North West Germany was incredibly memorable, as was Punch Me in the Stomach in German, not to speak of Prague, the film forum in north west Moravia and a week in the Loire. However the memories of the trip the two of you are sharing together will be part of the fabric of the rest of your lives.

    GO FAINES! lots of love, deb

  23. By Ruth Malpass November 27th, 2008 at 2:11 pm

    I am thoroughly enjoying following your journey Jon and Jack….totally envious too. I can’t help but notice how you have changed in just a few short months of travel. You appear to be sooo relaxed and just soaking up the atmosphere Jon. Something to try to hold on to when you return to the pace of work…if ever?? ( Teflon coat mandatory!)
    As many others have said, 774 is just not the same without your presence.
    Cheers and continue your safe travel,
    Ruth

  24. By Maree November 28th, 2008 at 10:31 am

    Dear Jack and Jon
    You are certainly having an interesting time but on the other hand I bet Jon wishes he was here because of all the intereting things that are happening elsewhere in the world. I guess January will be an interesting time to be back here too.
    I am going to be in London for NYE too, at Leeds Castle. First time I will have been overseas. It will just be 3 weeks in London and a few days in France, leaving here on Boxing day.
    It is so interesting keeping up with all the things happening at the moment and I hope you are able to do the same, although whether you want to know or not is anotherthing!!

    Take care and keeping enjoying both of you.
    Maree from Rowville, Melboune

  25. By Lea and Alexander April 30th, 2009 at 2:35 am

    Hi Jon and Jack,

    Lea and me just rembered our trip in your car from the Kyrgyz-Uzbek border point to Tashkent. Thank you for the ride.

    We are now back to Switzerland for some months already, and we expect our baby in the next weeks.

    All the best

    Lea and Alexander

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