Da-Li, Yunnan Province

Ah, China! Absolutely stunning scenery, history, food and people. We have dined on eel, glass eggs [somehow the white of the egg is cooked so that it is clear not cloudy....], sliced braised pig ears, tree bark fried with egg [Jack quipps "so they use every part of the dog"], hotpots, drunken chickens, blood sausage of  duck, pork crackling pancakes…  Our guide Tracy delights in taking us to hole in the wall places where you sit in the kitchen with the family and choose what to eat from the buckets on the floor, not a menu.

Tiger Leaping Gorge, despite the crowds, is deserving of every superlative ever given to it. We managed to be there on a rainy day when the treacherous paths up and down the cliffs were slippery and all the harder to climb. Jack has to promise the photo taken on the way back up the gorge of Jon breathless and covered in sweat will never see the light of day.

Yes, that is a sheer drop to the river below, and Jack, Tracy and our local guide are wandering along as do about a hundred people most days.

it looks every bit as stunning in real life. The majesty of the mountains, covered at the top in clouds, adds a scale that photos [well, my photos...] do not capture.

The Chinese believe that the clouds cover the top of the mountain to add to the mystery and majesty of the peaks. A little left to the imagination is not a bad thing, but the real deal here is impressive enough.

This bit of the path is the only dry part, the overhang of the rock offering relief from the rain.

We were totally drenched at the end. I was exhausted, but our guide wandered along with his umbrella as if he was out for a stroll on a rainy afternoon in the park. He lives 10k over the mountain top and walks to and from work each day as well as trekking with the tourists.  We head off to Kunming tomorrow morning, and will post some  more as soon as we get a chance.

This entry was posted on Monday, September 29th, 2008 at 1:44 am and is filed under China. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

66 comments to “China: Part II”

  1. By Natalie September 29th, 2008 at 7:46 am

    What a contrast in scenery to what we’ve seen before. I can understand how it would take your breath away. The thought of ordering your food from buckets on the floor in these remote kitchens, fair turned my stomach!!!! Hope your joint stomachs can take it. Really enjoying both your descriptions. I think we deserve to see the photo of Jon all puffed out and sweaty. What do you say people?????

  2. By warrick September 29th, 2008 at 11:34 am

    It has been worth the wait for the descriptions of China, Jon. It must feel like your trip has now truly commenced. Keep the pictured and interesting commentary coming. I know it eats into “tourist time” but we are hungry for it.(well not blood sausage of duck hungry).

  3. By Jen September 29th, 2008 at 11:59 am

    Wonderful photography and delightful descriptions. Glad you are sampling local food, makes life interesting doesn’t it. Take care

  4. By Chan September 29th, 2008 at 2:54 pm

    Dear Jon

    It is good to know that you are enjoying yourself with Jack. The diversity of the dialects spoken, landscape, food and culture in China will be an enriching experience for both of you.

    Kunming will be a great place as the climate is almost eternal spring.

    Hope to see more pictures of your trip.

    Chan

  5. By Ron McIntosh September 29th, 2008 at 3:06 pm

    Hi Jon glad to at last see a photo of the Gorge, the day we went it was also raining, and as i am an Asthmatic i had trouble breathing the air, those who did the climb said they did not get a good view because of the mist. enjoy the trip ron.

  6. By Joy & Don September 29th, 2008 at 3:42 pm

    Hi Jon/Jack

    We are following your progress with great interest. Isn’t China a magnificent country? You have inspired us to return to it once again - however I’m not sure about your culinary delights!

  7. By Mike September 29th, 2008 at 4:52 pm

    Jon and Jack
    Am fascinated by tour trip, and look forward to your weekly reports.
    Mike

  8. By peter Barnes September 29th, 2008 at 8:22 pm

    I find your adventures almost beyond comprehension,for an ancient ex”Pom”who’s been
    around I have nothing but admiration for your
    endeavours, “Keep on keeping on”
    Regards

    Peter

  9. By Deb, Melbourne September 30th, 2008 at 10:34 am

    I’d heard of Tiger Leaping Gorge but hadn’t seen photos. It’s amazing! I admire you both for doing the walk; I’d be terrified of falling.

    I’m glad you’ve made it to China, one of your prime objectives. Enjoy!

    Deb

  10. By Jacqui September 30th, 2008 at 5:43 pm

    I am envious!
    The scenery and the food!
    I hope the pigs ears & pork pancakes where kosher being it is Jewish New Year.
    My non Jewish friends say I cook the best kosher roast pork they have ever tasted.
    Can’t wait for the next instalment.
    Travel safely and happily.

  11. By Robin October 1st, 2008 at 10:04 am

    Thank you, thank you…wonderful evocative descriptions.Memories of the smells, the scenery, rain and mist all came flooding back reminding me of my past visit to China, and your photography is of the highest quality…I can see a wonderful Coffee Table book appearing in the future!! I’m presently awaiting your latest interview with Kathy Bedford, the spoken word always adds another dimension to your adventures.
    Best wishes on your continuing journey
    Robin

  12. By Catherine October 1st, 2008 at 10:33 am

    Wonderful to read - when I get a chance! Are you going to Chengdu by any chance?

  13. By Shute October 1st, 2008 at 10:56 am

    Wohh, familiar scenes. Welcome to my hometown again. Travel safely:)

  14. By Maarjorie Halls October 1st, 2008 at 11:01 am

    LESS WATER WHEN YOU WERE THERE THAN ON 25TH AUGUST LAST, WHEN WE WERE THERE, BUT IT WAS RAINING THEN TOO.

  15. By Jane October 1st, 2008 at 12:11 pm

    Fantastic. Just heard about your adventure on 774. The description of the Tiger Leaping Gorge was inspiring - now planning a trip to China!
    Good luck and take care.

  16. By Andee Sellman, One Sherpa October 1st, 2008 at 1:19 pm

    Great photos John,
    Heard you live on ABC today and it was great to hear the old familiar voice.
    Looks like you’re having an absolutely awesome time and enjoying culinary experiences which before this trip you may never have known existed!!

  17. By Wally & Eleanor October 1st, 2008 at 2:56 pm

    Hi J J Heard you on radio this morning Its nice to hear a vioce behind all the writings of your blog. Yes I and my wife Eleanor who was a keen listner of your programe loves all the comments of your travels. As it has been said many times before enjoy the moment because when you are old and gray you can relive your life again through all your photos and writings. Keep on treking Wally & Eleanor.

  18. By Joan October 1st, 2008 at 3:32 pm

    Hi Jon & Jack, congratulations on making it safely to China though the journey would not be one for the faint hearted. Waking up each day must be so exciting despite all the hardships and at night marvel at the daring deeds of the day. Do you think you can ever face a plain old BBQ steak again after all that exotic food? Thank you for the wonderful photos and great stories. One more thing, am I the only person following your trip who has not been to China?

  19. By rosemary October 1st, 2008 at 4:44 pm

    jon and jack - isn’t tiger leaping gorge just fantastic! did you stay in the guesthouses - and use the loo with a view? there are so many wonderful places you never hear about, like dali and lijang too.
    continue to have amazing adventures and travel safely. will be following you.

  20. By GREGIEM October 1st, 2008 at 5:38 pm

    I caught you on the radio today, your half way point looks stunning.

  21. By Irv and Marg Hambleton October 1st, 2008 at 6:46 pm

    Hi guys,
    Hope you continue to enjoy China as much as we have - the best is yet to come; everyday is full of surprises. Hope you enjoy it as much as us.
    We arrived home three weeks ago - have been four times it is truly one of the most wonderful and exciting places to visit.
    Safe travels
    Irv & Marg

  22. By daryl lambert October 1st, 2008 at 7:11 pm

    Great photos, heard you on the ABC today,your camera is your brain,just the best trip so far be well daryl

  23. By Adrienne October 1st, 2008 at 8:17 pm

    Jon are you travelling the silk road?

  24. By Archie Ellis October 2nd, 2008 at 9:42 am

    Note to Joan: No you are not the only one. I have never been there either. :)
    Am enjoying the posts by Jack and Jon and hope to receive many more.
    Enjoy!

  25. By Paula October 2nd, 2008 at 10:24 am

    Hi to you both - so gald all is going well, experiencing the wonders of our world - tiger leaping gorge sounds great - it is now on my list to visit.
    Take care and enjoy.

  26. By Pam Meehan October 2nd, 2008 at 10:38 am

    Hi J & J, it’s wonderful to read about your adventures & see the fantastic photos. It’s great to hear you on radio too! Like Joan (Oct 1st) I haven’t been to China either - loved seeing it during the Olympics, but your adventures bring it to life. Looking forward to further blogs!
    Take care & enjoy this once-in-a-lifetime experience! Pam

  27. By shirley October 2nd, 2008 at 11:01 am

    Dear Jon. I do look forward to your weekly Wednesday updates on 774, and put off going out until you have been on air!! It is hard to believe you are 3 months into your adventure. Your fill-ins are doing a great job, but I look forward to your return to your chair,[which would be the furtherest thing from your mind at present]Cheers to you both.

  28. By vicki October 2nd, 2008 at 11:09 am

    wOw! [...but i do think at some stage in the future that we should get an 'out-takes' look at your trip too! ;-) ]…as usual guys stunning… Thankyou (ps) i think your eating habits are nothing short of *brave* !!! vicki

  29. By Jeff Mander October 2nd, 2008 at 11:25 am

    What a wonderful trip you are having, and congrats on being able to keep us informed so well despite the distances.
    We were in Beijing some years ago, and were impressed by the friendliness of the Chinese. We have two lovely Chinese in Bendigo, and my wife went to their wedding in Shinzhen early this year, and we have now been adopted by the family as Aussie grandparents. Your visit can only help the Chinese to understand us more, and help to improve relationships.Thank you both for going, and good luck with the rest of your trip Jeff

  30. By Trudy October 2nd, 2008 at 11:43 am

    Hi Jon and jack, I am enjoying your wonderful descriptions of the places, I can smell the smells , how did you like the eel??? A tip, if you go to Holland, please try the smoked eel there, such delicacy!!!!!!and a nice comparison…..

    Stay safe. Greetings Trudy

  31. By Gayle Hughes October 2nd, 2008 at 12:00 pm

    Jon & Jack, I’m enjoying every bit of your trip, but I bet not as much as you are. Thank you so much for allowing me and of course everyone else, the opportunity to peek into your amazing journey. Safe travels. Gayle

  32. By Juliana October 2nd, 2008 at 12:15 pm

    Have enjoyed your postings & have managed to catch some of your interviews on 774.
    You’ve been away a long time & have been missed, especially your cutting interviews Jon.
    Also you’ll have to come back & work for more years than anticipated as your super has taken a nose dive! Good for us listeners.
    The Gorge looks terrific. I’ve only been to the Launceston Gorge. Not quite as dramatic but the abseiling looked challenging.

  33. By Maureen October 2nd, 2008 at 12:36 pm

    Hello Jon and Jack….lucky you….what an adventure. I spent eight days in China in November 2006, and only in Beijing and surrounds….first visit and really wanted to climb the Great Wall which I did. Will return one day to venture further afield.

  34. By Rhonda October 2nd, 2008 at 1:20 pm

    Thank you Jack & Jon for reminding me of the wonder of southwest China. Two trips over the last 10 years to Kunming introduced me to the joys of that part of the world. Dali and the mountains, the diversity of the minorities cultures of that area are amazing. When you need to chill out for a few hours, Green Mountain just outside Kunming (walk don’t drive)walk up the road to the top and meeting the people is the best ! Is the Horticultural Expo (1999) site in Kunming still open. Oh the memories! Time to save up and go back. Keep the stories coming - we all love them. Rhonda

  35. By Bob Pulford October 2nd, 2008 at 2:41 pm

    Hello John and Jack, thank you so much for your wonderful e-mais and photos. Sensational.
    I am arriving in China in a few days with my 35 year old son.Will be doing the traditional tour.
    I was there with my daughter last year, we just loved the place and especially the people.I just hope we have as much fun as you and Jack are having. Think though that we will dodge the buckets and look for a menu.Best wishes to you both, (and Tracy)

    Regards,
    Bob Pyulford

  36. By haidar October 2nd, 2008 at 3:21 pm

    good to hear from u china great place so enjoit,hope u all well and in good spirit.take care

  37. By isobel cowan October 2nd, 2008 at 4:04 pm

    What a wnderful experience ! just travelling with your son !

    you will find lots of things about each other which will enrich your relationship.
    I had the great pleasure of travelling with my daughter earlier in the U.K> even though there was a 25 year gap in our ages I am 77 and muy daughter treated me like i was in her age group
    enjoy your experience to yhe fullest
    happy travelling
    Isobel

  38. By Dot Blaber October 2nd, 2008 at 4:33 pm

    Dear Jon and Jack
    Really enjoying your trip via photo,s etc
    Keep having a wonderful time.
    There is no way that I would be able to go to “Tiger Leaping Gorge”
    Cheers
    Dot Blaber

  39. By Jean Bohmer October 2nd, 2008 at 6:11 pm

    How wonderful to hear of your adventures when speaking with Kathy Bedford, and especially to hear the old familiar voice You are like part of my family!
    I feel so much a part of your travels and have visited China myself, but only Beijing and the close surrounding countryside.
    Thank you both for sharing your trip with all of us who are your greatest fans.
    Keep safe - looking foeward to the next update.

  40. By Pam October 2nd, 2008 at 6:37 pm

    Thanks for the photos and updates on your trip. I have just returned from Sth. Australia and the country-side is green. Pity about Hindmarsh Island as the boats are sitting in mud - no water.
    All Melbournites were saddened to hear of the sudden passing of Rob Guest overnight.
    Take care,
    Pam

  41. By Heather Callander October 2nd, 2008 at 7:02 pm

    Been away for two weeks ,travelling in the ,Aust Outback with two 12 yr old grandchildren. Have instilled a love of travelling in them and have introduced them to your journey on our return home . Hopefully they will start dreaming of where they can aim for !!

  42. By Jan Lewtas October 2nd, 2008 at 7:44 pm

    Wow, your description on radio yesterday had me searching for more on Tiger Leaping Gorge, even if my computer wanted to know if I meant “Tiger Leaping George”?
    I enjoy hearing your weekly briefings along with the wonderful additions to your web-site.
    When is the book coming out?
    Safe travels,
    Jan.

  43. By Merlyn FORBES October 2nd, 2008 at 7:51 pm

    Dear Jack & John Faine,

    I am really enjoying your travels to date & look forward to reading your story when you publish!!! A wonderful thing for a father & son to do.

    My best wishes for futher adventures.

    Merlyn F.

  44. By Ann October 2nd, 2008 at 11:21 pm

    Hi! Jon and Jack, I also heard you and I too have been to China, but did it the easy way on a guided tour, but there is not much choice after 70′. Your pics are excellent, but your diet leaves a little to be desired. I had an hundred year old egg there, but did not enjoy. I think the picture of the gorge may have worried Jan,do not take any chances. Keep safe and enjoy every minute. Best Wishes Ann

  45. By Mrgaret Cheale October 3rd, 2008 at 7:35 am

    Jon and Jack,
    This type of experience in China - going into non commercial eateries, trying all manner of new foods, tiring yourself to the max as you walk to the falls - must make you feel that all the planning and the revised travel has all been worth the effort. I am so glad that after all you were able to visit China - after the Para Olympics.
    We are really enjoying your all too infrequent entries on the Blog. However, as habitual travellers, we well know that the travel and accumulating experiences, is far more important than telling those back home what you have been doing. Excepting Jan……
    Margaret

  46. By David Kirchen October 3rd, 2008 at 11:25 am

    Wow. What scenery, But what is so great for me is the food!! Each time we travel we try to “Go local” foodwise. It ceertainly makes the experience really individual.

  47. By Jennie October 3rd, 2008 at 4:18 pm

    Jon and Jack thank you so much for taking the time to share your wonderful adventures with us. Your vivid descriptions and fantastic photos are taking me back to some of the wonderful trips my husband and I have enjoyed. We travelled quite extensively with our 3 children over the years and now they are all adults with children of their own, we often share our memories of those wonderful days.
    I hope you continue to travel safely and make the most of every experience that comes your way. Can’t wait to hear what else you get up to.

  48. By Leanne Clarke October 3rd, 2008 at 9:03 pm

    Love following your trip Jack and Jon. And I thought I did a good job climbing Diamond Head.

    Leanne Clarke

  49. By Leanne Clarke October 3rd, 2008 at 9:06 pm

    Mum and Dad have travelled extensively and I have never seen the so elated as they did when they returned from China. They loved it, and still constantly talk about it.

  50. By Mary Jones October 3rd, 2008 at 9:10 pm

    Absolutely fascinating to follow your journeyings! Guess the time is flying by you are only scratching the surface. Next trip will have to include your wife and Jon will find another travel companion ?!
    Take care and absorb the experiences.

  51. By ALLAN October 3rd, 2008 at 9:26 pm

    Hi Jack and Jon,

    Really enjoying your trip. I feel like I’m there with you. Oh how I wish. Jon missing you terribly in the mornings.

    Is Jan and Nigel going to join you in London?

    Stay safe on your travels.

    Allan.

  52. By Haydn October 3rd, 2008 at 10:21 pm

    Dear Jon
    It seems you have been gone an eternity,we were looking at a map of the world the other day,boy you have a long way to go.It is unlikely I will ever get to see any of the things you have,so we live the experience through your eyes,so lots of pics please.We hope the car stays reliable,til next time
    Haydn

  53. By Arnold James October 4th, 2008 at 1:55 pm

    Am very jealous, after looking at the picture of Tiger Leaping Gorge. In my old age I have lost my head for heights. Nevertheless I will keep on following your trip. We only had 3days in china about 15 years ago. Although too short, was terific.

  54. By roentarre October 4th, 2008 at 11:52 pm

    Spetacular post. Your photography is excellent!

  55. By dwight Wood October 5th, 2008 at 12:29 am

    Dear John and Jack
    It was great to pass you the other day. we are in Kunmin on schedule.
    Please could you give us a bit bit more info on the bad road in the south going to the border so that we can avoid it?
    Our blog is http://www.freshwaterfilter.blogspot.com

    Please make sure you have enough fuel before INNER MOngolia as there was a deisel shortage when we were coming south from Mongolia.
    kind regards
    Dwight, Tessie, Loong and Lewis

  56. By Helen Ryan October 5th, 2008 at 12:59 pm

    Hullo J&J
    Have either of you read Simon Winchester’s “River at the Centre of the World”? It is what inspired me to want to see the Tiger Leaping Gorge. I would be interested in your thoughts should you have read it, or if you ever get the chance. I have photos of many of the warning signs around the gorge, but they may have changed since the translations were modified before the Olympics. They were classics!

    Helen

  57. By Jean Wigginton October 6th, 2008 at 9:46 am

    Hi Jon and Jack.

    The photos from China are breathtaking. I don’t know how I would have gone walking along the narrow path at Tiger Leaping Gorge. I am terrified of heights. Keep safe - I am looking forward to your next update.

    Jean

  58. By Liz and Rick October 6th, 2008 at 2:33 pm

    We love reading about your trip,particularly the marvellous scenery and delicious food!!!Jack your writing is most descriptive and we almost feel that we are travelling with you. Thanks.

  59. By Ross Harman October 7th, 2008 at 4:54 pm

    Jon, that’s fantastic!!!!What a great sight, so glad everything is going well. Wonderful to be able to join in this trip with you both. Regards Ross.

  60. By Julie-Anna Binstead October 8th, 2008 at 7:15 am

    As we have travelled in our Destiny van for 3 months to Cooktown and home to Rye, we have followed with interest your wonderful journey. It is great to know that Jack too has his fathers way with words and his description of China brings it all to life. An incredible experience which we can all absorb and enjoy!!! Our world of computers does have advantages as long as we don’t loose the art of communication by voice!! Travel safe and thank you both!!!

  61. By Irene Epstein October 11th, 2008 at 11:40 am

    Dear Jon
    I tried to send you Birthday wishes on your Birthday,but could not find a REPLY box.
    Wishing you belated Birthday Wishes and Shana Tova at the same time.
    Be safe, you and Jack - I am counting the days to hear your voice again on 774.
    Do you need any Mylanta after the pigs’ delicacies? Thanks and be well Irene

  62. By Joy Ali October 13th, 2008 at 1:18 pm

    Jon and Jack,

    Enjoying the journey from the comfort of my home, unfortunately my travels are somewhat curtailed (poor health and no money), what the heck life is still great. Look forward to more fantastic photos and your choice of food. Try barbecued Ram’s Balls (that’s the English translation) in Turkey if you pass that way. They tasted wonderful.

    Some of that rain in the Gorge would be welcome here in Melbourne.

    stay safe….Joy Ali

  63. By Antony October 14th, 2008 at 12:49 pm

    The hard part of your journey is about to commence. You are about to travel into Winter. You will find it very difficult to get around and in an effort to beat the clock and expiration of your Visa you will travel quicker then you had planned and in the process miss much. I am looking forward to your visit and travels through Russia and Ukraine (The country of origin) BUT I know it will be winter. The best time to visit this region is Spring. May. Winter is a very beautiful time also but if you have not spent time in minus 25 degrees before then you will find it difficult. Even though you are fully clothed, it is like standing naked in a freezer. if you can extend your visa I suggest bedding down. If you have time to visit Ukraine please contact me and maybe I can assist in putting you in contact with people of interest.

  64. By John and Rita October 16th, 2008 at 11:53 pm

    Hi Jon and Jack
    We follow every part of your jurney with envy.I have just finished my holidays(high school teacher) and will be back at work on Monday.Wish we could travel with you two.The pictures about TigerLeaping Gorge are emazing… How did it get the name?? Any tigers?? I don’t think I could eat anything in that kitchen…sorry.Look forward to your next report.
    Travel savely.
    John and Rita

  65. By Shelley October 22nd, 2008 at 7:39 pm

    You have both inspired me. Im breathless. sooooo much out there. Buuuuut please come home soon. I useually prepare lunch for my childeren and organise tea for the family at 11:00 whilst I listen to you. Well my kids are nearly dead of malnutrition, hubbys leaving cos he cant get a decent feed, and all I dom is winge because I want to see more of the world. John can we please have him back. Thankyou for sharing your trip both of you, two different veiws are good.

  66. By brigitte and edy February 4th, 2010 at 12:35 am

    Hallo Jack and Jon, since 4 years we are travelling in south america with our expedition-truck. now we are planning to drive from europe to asia. we read that you booked the guide for china through navo-tours. would you choose navo-tour again? thanks a lot for your answer and informations. regards the nomads

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