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Phnom Penh By jon September 8th, 2008 at 11:11 pm

The world made a promise after the enormity of the Holocaust was revealed at the end of WWII. We promised it would not happen again. But it did. We failed.

Visiting Phnom Penh is a charming but also chlling experience. Whilst soaking up the French influenced ambience, it is simply impossible to ignore the all too recent horrors of the Khmer Rouge. The Killing Fields and the S21 Tuol Sleng Torture Museum are compelling places to visit. The Killing Fields Memorial is an eight storey high stupa filled with skulls encased in glass. Mass graves dot the fields, disconcertingly close to ordinary local farms. Likewise, the old high school used as a torture centre by Pol Pot and his ghouls is slap bang in the middle of the suburbs, blocks of flats abutting. The neighours MUST have known what was happening, where as many as 20 000 people were tortured and killed as the Khmer rouge purged the nation of a generation of intellectuals, professionals, free thinkers - anyone they thought may be a threat to their regime.

But Cambodia is a lot more than just a gruesome horror show. Welcoming, friendly and fun, it is also home to zillions of NGOs, organisations trying to help Cambodia get things back in order. We visited two - a refuge for trafficked women run by HAGAR  and Tonle, a guesthouse in Stueng Treng where local kids are trained in tourism. Both do wonderful work with not enough money and depend on overseas [mainly Swiss] donations.

Now we have crossed the Mekong River in Laos and head for the mountains.

This entry was posted on Monday, September 8th, 2008 at 11:11 pm and is filed under S.E. Asia. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

14 comments to “Phnom Penh”

  1. By Edward September 9th, 2008 at 11:12 am

    WE found the Foreign Correspondents’ Clubs in both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap excellent places to eat. Particularly in the capital. Incidentally, love of architectural heritage isn’t dead in Phnom Penh. Just over the back fence at the FCC in Phnom Penh is a beautiful, but dilapidated, French colonial building used a fair bit by our equivalent of “squatters”.
    The current day owners of the FCC have apparently purchased the French building and intend to restore it — meticulously, acording to the plans and diagrams we saw on display in March this year.
    J. and J. might not have had the time but a river boat trip to the junction of the Upper and Lower Mekongs in Phnom Penh is a sight to behold. The waterway viewed from mid-stream must be a kilometre and a half across. If only our Murray-Darling could hold a fifth of that volume.
    Just as in Bangkok, a trip to the Royal Palace and (which includes the Silver Pagoda) is well worthwhile. Not far away is he National Museum. If you’ve been to Angkor Wat in the Siem Reap area, there’s a marvellous statue of 12th century king Jayavarman VII in the museum. He was one of the architects of Angkor Wat.
    Wat Phnom is situated on the only hill in town. There’s a statue there of Madame Penh. Apparently she discovered four statues of Buddha, left behind by the Mekong’s waters, sometime in the 1300s A.D.

  2. By Gary September 9th, 2008 at 5:19 pm

    Your account is one that gives all of us a greater perspective on the world and where we sit. Doubtless, there are a number of other places around the world that still reel from similar effects.

    To our fortune, Australian soil has never seen such devastation, though countless diggers and service men and women were witness to such atrocities.

    In a place where binge drinking, drugs, violence and intolerances become a societal backdrop to life, though totally undesirable, we forget or don’t comprehend the terrible capabilities of the human race.

    And we often don’t get to see (because it is not media-grabbing) the generosity of humans who do contribute to make better the existence of others.

    Jon and Jack, your experiences provide such a window to the world. Your message will help to bring about change.

  3. By Jacqui Coutts September 9th, 2008 at 5:49 pm

    Unfortunately we do not live in a perfect world and Genocide is still happening in many war torn countries world wide. It is very hard to close ones mind to such tragic affairs while we travel to some of the most scenic places and meet wonderful peace loving people.
    It is heartening to know that there are many wonderful human beings out there helping to give those with less, the things we take for granted.
    Until we start traveling we don’t realise how fortunate we are in Oz!
    Take Care Keep Happy and safe

  4. By Delia September 9th, 2008 at 7:28 pm

    Hi guys,
    Glad you found Tonle Guesthouse on the river in Stung Treng, despite my very vague directions from Kratie. I hear you also visited Mekong Blue, the silk weaving NGO. Hope you had a lovely time passing through NE Cambodia.
    Wishing you safe onward travels.
    Delia, VSO volunteer, Stung Treng.

  5. By Geoffo September 9th, 2008 at 8:34 pm

    Hello Jon and Jack

    Cambodia, amazing. On Sunday I was at Tulla to meet M-G coming home for a couple of weeks with the rest of us and to meet the new grandchild. Customs was taking an hour-and-a-half to two hours to get people through. A laughing lady sitting waiting next to me had a bunch of rapidly wilting roses she had bought for an exorbitant price to present to her sister when she arrived for a holiday from Hongkong. She was from Cambodia. Her brother and parents were slaughtered. She was revelling in life, and insisted on giving me one of her roses to give to M-G when she finally got out. How can someone with memories like that ever laugh again? A friend of ours here in Mentone is also from Cambodia. Three brothers slaughtered because they wore glasses. She tells me with a laugh about how her son refuses to be a “good Asian boy” and do maths and medicine and stuff; instead, he has enrolled himself for a drama course. She helped when things were bad with our family in East Timor. What also helped was memories of our Jewish neighbours when I was a teenager; they had survived the concentration camp to live another, happier day. I heard the other day that another of them had died. There were four, now there is one.

    How did we allow it to happen again? And when the Vietnamese stepped in to stop the slaughter, the graceless, gormless west continued to recognize the mass murderers as the legitimate government.

    But I’m not sure “happen again” is actually relevant. It has always been happening and continues to happen. The dreadful slaughter in the Ukraine in the 1930s under Stalin, more of it in the 1950s, genocides here, genocides there. Look at the East Timorese killings, and we in Australia attended our circuses and turned out backs.

    Sounds as though the trip really is working. The fact that the itinerary is in tatters is probably a positive!

    Cheers, geoff

  6. By murray September 10th, 2008 at 1:53 pm

    Jon, In Lao, go looking for the equal of the horrors of the Killing Fields, see if you find the crews that are removing the unexploded bombs that were left by mistake and bad judgement. You will be up that way. Dont find them by mistake though! So far, you both have my admiration.

  7. By Phillip September 11th, 2008 at 12:04 pm

    Congradulations guys.
    You seemed to moving forward with persperation, fortitude and focus, and havn’t managed to kill each other.
    Well done getting this far and I look forward to reading about the rest of journey.
    Best wishes.

  8. By Michael Hodgman September 12th, 2008 at 10:23 am

    Hello Jon and Jack,

    Thank you for providing us back in Melbourne with an individual’s insight into other countries and cultures. We appreciate it as a very long listening 3LO listener.

    My son John (18) recently surprised me as when he finishes his year 12 this year, he is going to help the Jesuits in Cambodia for 3 weeks. What advice do you have for coping in Cambodia for John?

    Don’t worry about any delays, enjoy your trip and memories and just remember, your adversities will be good discussion topics when you eventually come home.

    warm regards,

    Mike

  9. By Bruce Watt September 13th, 2008 at 10:13 am

    Hey Jon & Jack
    Please dont turn this trip into a grand prix by rushing because you think you are behind schedule. On a trip like this which most likely is a once in a lifetime, there is no such thing as schedule. Slow down, take in the view, the culture, explore and learn.

    Good Luck

    Bruce Watt

  10. By humphrey hollins September 15th, 2008 at 5:05 pm

    you refer to neighbours knowing what was happening at toul sleng.
    You obviously rushed through cambodia if you thought there were any neighbours-this was not nazi germany.
    The whole population of the city was forcibly removed,mate.marched to all points of the compass all over cambodia.
    For four years the city only had a few communist embassies occupied and the KR leadership and their families as well as people to man the critical infrastucture and keep a few clothing factories going.
    Even in the early nineties parts of PP were still empty-more reading required before visiting next time,old boy.

  11. By Bob & Anne Finch September 15th, 2008 at 6:31 pm

    Hi Jon and Jack

    We were in Siem Reap for a few days and just leaving by bus when we spied your Prado in the back streets.

    We are interested travellers, as we plan to head off overseas with our Troopcarrier in 18 months, so look with interst at anyone else who is doing the same thing.

    We will be following your travels with interest. Are you having to use a guide in China?

    Wasn’t Cambodia and the people lovely, we thoroughly enjoyed our time there - short as it was, can’t believe they can still smile after so much devistation, appreciated how open they were about what had happened. We also visited the south of Vietnam, for the second time love it all, but now will be saving hard for our big venture in 18 months

    All the best and good luck for your adventure.

    Regards
    Anne and Bob Finch

  12. By Mr. Carne September 15th, 2008 at 8:57 pm

    Cheers; Jon & Jack,
    I dwell on your observations with both, hope & reality.
    One Evil (colonialism) & ‘progress’ recreates itself again & again, in the next generation of achievers!!!
    Thus we learn, one generation by one generation.
    Only by our PERSONAL EXAMPLE TODAY; can the future become: caring, harmonious, & peaceful.
    But by sharing our lessons, we can all learn to change ourselves & THE FUTURE.
    Only by moving ourself & our family outside our comfort zone, can our internal changes, become profound, rapid & perminent.
    Jon & Jack; by writing your Blogs, I’am inspired & renewed.
    Regards, Mr. Bruce Carne, Warragul Vic.

  13. By Ann September 20th, 2008 at 11:44 am

    Great to catch up with your latest news. I agree, do not hurry too much, there is so much to see and you will not pass that way again, will you? So enjoy what you see and remember. Your photos will be a wonderful help.
    The ABC, believe it or not is surviving, Hilary is doing a great job, in Tonya”s spot although we all miss her. Alli is leaving soon and I think the break will do us all good, we must not get too used to a permanent person in YOUR SPOT.
    We will see her in Kerry’s place. Red is still RED and anyone who gets up that early, deserves to be listened to and the 1-3p.m. slot is excellent. BUT we do miss you Jon and if you are back at the end of January, that will be fine with me. Enjoy. I really miss you. Take care and keep safe.
    Ann

  14. By Mike O'Mara September 30th, 2008 at 7:27 pm

    Jon and Jack

    I’m a long time listener. (Not a long time agreer - please come home!!!!!) I’ve resisted making a comment but following your progress on the edge of my seat. I was lucky to play basketball with my son,(in my reclining years), and nothing made me more porud. In January we are walking to the Lighthouse at Wilsons Prom so I can only imagine how important to you both that this time together is. Take care and I hope the man upstairs looks over you both. (Whoever her is Jesus, Allah, Jehova or Buudah - probably he is one and the same)

    Mike

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