From Singapore, to Malaysia, through Thailand and now to Cambodia. An unseemly rush. We are trying to make up the time lost through ships and ferries not being there when I imagined they would be. Why is everything so complicated? And why are things not so easy in real life as in my imagination?

On the positive side of the ledger: we just had a remarkable dinner here in Siem Reap. We walked through the old town, wall to wall tourist shops. ATM machines spewing out $US which serves as an amalgam local currency….  you pay in yankee $and get change in Cambodian riel. We turned around and headed back to the large barn like building alongside the river. No whitefellas, and the Cambodians cracked up as we walked in and sat down. Huge clear plastic beer dispensers adorn every table and the brewery has very thoughtfully supplied uniformed waitresses just to attend to your beer. Which is served with ice in the glass. And consumed with glee by the mostly pissed patrons.

None of the waiters and waitresses spoke a word of English so with mime and pointing we ordered prawns and bbq beef. We were served a small stack of little bowls with chilli, crushed peanuts and some sort of sauce that smelled of the sewer and boasted a similar consistency. After much staring, a diner from the next table came over to show us how to mix everything together and make a paste into which the meat and green leaves are dipped. But it still tasted foul, and we decided to ignore their mirth and eat the food without the sauce. Dinner cost US$12.50 or CamRiel50000.

And on the downside: my laptop did not survive the voyage from Singapore. A new hard disc was installed in a shop in Bangkok to revive it, but I have lost everything that was installed on the old one. We did manage to save the data files, but I am a shadow of my former self. It is a bit like after a burglary - you are not even sure what has gone missing.

And to cap off a really crappy day, Jack was pick-pocketed in the market at Jatajak in Bangkok and lost his diary, his constant companion from Day 1 of the trip. It is so senseless - a useless item to anyone but him, now gone for ever. He is not a happy boy. He also had a sensational pair of retro RayBan sunglasses nicked from the same pocket, but it is the diary that really will be missed.

This entry was posted on Tuesday, September 2nd, 2008 at 12:35 am and is filed under S.E. Asia. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

46 comments to “Cambodia”

  1. By Don Doenitz September 2nd, 2008 at 3:03 am

    Go by the Giddy Gecko and see our son, Matt, the owner of a nice lounge bar just off Pub Street behind the Temple Club.
    Best little bar in town!!
    d

  2. By Sandra September 2nd, 2008 at 6:38 am

    Hi Jon & Jack
    I am glad to here you are out of Indonesia - I was begining to wonder if you would ever leave the archpelago, or just visit all the islands. Anyway do make sure to take some time out. Trust me sometimes you just need to chill. I have been in Europe since April and travelling around via trains since June.
    And then there are days of domestic duties, washing, web site updating and banking to be done.
    see you in Paris maybe
    regards
    Sandra

  3. By Pat September 2nd, 2008 at 8:28 am

    Before our last trip to Vietnam-Laos, we had vests made from heavy canvas. Like fisherman’s vests with lots of pockets, except all the pocket zippers were on the inside. You can get a fabric that is pretty knife=proof to include in the front panels for extra security. Fiddly, but the extra security was good. Bet you could find a tailor in Cambodia or thereabouts who would make security vests for you if you wanted them.
    Cheers
    Pat

  4. By John Brownlie September 2nd, 2008 at 8:55 am

    Nice to see you on the move again. We were beginning to think that you had decided to stop and prop. Sad to hear about losing stuff to picpockets; as you say useless to anyone but Jack, and having once been the victim of a car breakin, I know how violated you must feel.
    I guess all you can do is put it down to experience and move on.
    Look forward to the nex instalment. Travel safely.

  5. By John September 2nd, 2008 at 10:05 am

    I must have missed a posting but how did you finally get from Indonesia to Singapore and how long did it take to drive from Singers to Bangers? They tell me the Malaysian toll roads are very good.

    have a safe trip. John Cullen

  6. By Jeff James September 2nd, 2008 at 10:16 am

    Hi Jon & Jack, Jeff James here the “I think we’re all crazy” cyclist.

    As I traveled I dreaded loosing my little black notebook with the names and contact details of all those I met along the way, plus the daily stats (km) for every day of riding. I had my pocket picked in Hanoi on the Lunar New Year, they got a wallet but I was really lucky to only loose money. Totally replaceable, just annoying.

    When I saw you were in Cambodia I was hoping you’d have complained about the road from the Thai border to Siam Reap. I could then have said “you with four wheels and suspension. What about poor little old me.” But I guess in the car you barely noticed it (Ha).

    Jon, Thanks for your enquiry as to whether I’m home yet. Yes, I am. As of Saturday 30th August. When you posted your comment on my web (Aug 20th) I would have been in Mount Gambier, travelling slowly back to Melbourne waiting for my tenanted house to become available.

    I’m now back in the real world, I spent yesterday arranging power, gas , telephone, insurance and all those mundane things that you need to do when you’re not out living simply off the back of a touring bicycle.

    Jeff

  7. By Joy September 2nd, 2008 at 10:51 am

    Hi Jon and Jack,
    I have been keeping an eye on this website and worrying that it was a long time between posts. So I am glad to hear you are fine although rushed and robbed and computer lessened.
    My health is not good and so travelling to the shops is about my limit. I am enjoying your journey vicariously and while my heart goes out to you with your difficulties, I know you are also enjoying the richness of this kind of living.
    All Good Things
    Joy

  8. By Stuart Bridgman September 2nd, 2008 at 11:11 am

    Hi Jon & Jack
    What an amazing trip. Your photos and stories show how mundane and insulated life in suburban Melbourne can be when compared to living life to the fullest and exploring the rest of the world.
    Not sure if you care right now, but Jon, the Yarra over 50’s A & B teams are in the finals and Jack, our 1st’s team just missed out after 2 pretty average recent games.
    Keep safe guys and continue to show us what is possible.
    Regards Stuart B.

  9. By Bryan September 2nd, 2008 at 11:24 am

    Hi Guys,

    I was in Cambodia about a year ago. Siem Reap is an ‘interesting’ place and well worth it for the temples.

    Jon, If you make it down to Phnom Penh, you should try to visit the Foreign Correspondents Club, which is at Sisowath quay No. 227. Its a place that is so steeped in history, from bullet holes in the wall and old leather couches. You will also like the opportunity to mingle with all the foreign journos that cool down there at the end of the day. When we were there the local elections were underway and the communists resurgent, so it was a hive of laptops, stories being filed and fans blowing at full force. The FCC is expensive compared to other local food and drink but still worth a visit. Keep persisting with Khmer food… its well worth it.

    If you visit the killing fields etc, be prepared. Quite possibly the most moving place that I have ever been to.

    Enjoy Cambodia, the Khmer are an amazing people with so much of a sad history, hidden by a perpetually smiling face. Of all the countries that I’ve visited, its probably the one that I could most go back to live in.

    Cheers

  10. By David September 2nd, 2008 at 11:37 am

    Jon,
    So how did you travel from Jakarta to Singapore? Was the car containered and you two on a ferry? Your journey up to Timor was indicated on the googlemap with a blue line - showing the path taken. But this feature stopped in Timor. Is there any way this can be turned back on so that we can see your path instead of only the “tags”.
    Jack - I used to mail pages from diary back home each week or so.
    And how’s the Prado travelling?
    Chins up,
    David

  11. By Margaret September 2nd, 2008 at 12:23 pm

    Hi Jon & Jack

    I am so sorry for you both for the lost data on the computer and even more so your diary Jack. I, among many, have been enthralled by your writing Jack and as this is a trip full of special moments, for you the diary would be invaluable.

    Lets hope that you had sent many of your thoughts home to your Mum and friends and so you can retrieve some of that precious information. Can you also try to remember as much as posssible and write it in a new diary? Not the same, I know, but as it is earlier rather than later in the trip you may be able to recall more than you would near the end. Not the ideal solution or something you would readily want to have to do.

    I hope that you have many good times ahead and thank you for taking us on your journey.

    Margaret

  12. By greg September 2nd, 2008 at 3:19 pm

    Well,welcome to travelling its make the good parts very special and the bad parts very ugly but tomorrow is a new and exciting day

  13. By Rohan Gaylard September 2nd, 2008 at 4:25 pm

    Hi Jack you met my wife Gail and daughter Caroline in Luang Prabang Laos last year and again at the send off party are you still going to visit Laos and Luang Prabang in particular if so Caroline would like very much to see you i will be going to see Caroline next week also so if you are there we could all have a wonderful meal at her cafe which is called
    Tamarind just near wat nong you had a meal there last year
    good best wishes to you both
    Rohan

  14. By Brian Hall September 2nd, 2008 at 4:27 pm

    Hey guys, sounds like your getting a little frustrated. Take up the lotus position, deep breath, OHHHMMM, OHHHMMM.

    The rush may be adding to the stress. No more ships to wait for. Straight driving from here on. The diary might be gone, but these entries are still here.

    Keep up the news as we all want to live the experience with you.

    Regards
    Brian Hall

  15. By kelo September 2nd, 2008 at 4:49 pm

    Hi Jon & Jack You are having a rough trot at the moment but things will get better soon. Keep up the travel diary as I look forward in following your journey. I am not as game as you both are, but good luck and safe travelling, hear more from your web sit soon Kel. Williams

  16. By Rosalind September 2nd, 2008 at 5:16 pm

    The best laid plans of mice and men…….
    Sometimes it is what you haven’t planned that turns out to be the best experience. Sorry to hear about the loss of the diary however if you take time now to write about the most important events, the ones that stick in your mind, you can fill in the details when you write your book. No-one will doubt your memory! It was with some relief that I read your latest; was thinking you had got lost!

  17. By Ann September 2nd, 2008 at 5:27 pm

    Oh Jon and Jack, you sound really down and homesick. I know how that feels as I was robbed also on my recent trip and it leaves you feeling very violated. You will get to the next beautiful place and it will dim in your memory. We are just enjoying hearing of you travels warts and all and I hope the next exciting adventure is not too far away. Can’t wait to hear about it. Ann

  18. By Reetha September 2nd, 2008 at 8:32 pm

    Hi Jon and Jack
    Loving every detail of your trip so far. Am very disapointed though that there were no tales from Malaysia. Being a Malaysian myself and feeling rather homesick was waiting for news about your travels through Malaysia. Hope my fellow countrymen treated you well. Looking forward to your next installment.

  19. By Maureen Kelson September 2nd, 2008 at 11:35 pm

    Glad to hear some more news. Sorry to hear that you have had a difficult time. Chill and think positive, it really helps! It’s a great adventure and we love that you are sharing it with us.
    [Can't wait till we hear your voice on the radio every morning again though!]

  20. By michele baker September 3rd, 2008 at 3:52 am

    good morning gentlemen
    i could not sleep and was listening to the night radio and i heard jon and his comments, i quickly got up and went to have a look at your website,what an adventure, i always dreamt of doing something like it but flying to spain and then coming back to Australia on land and water,one day…. I am sorry about the pickpocket of your diary but hopefully that” bad apple” will not put you off all the other nice people in this world.The photos are beautiful ( except the fight
    between the birds, the use of daggers is very cruel). Well happy journey, happy snaps, i will look up the sight to see how you are progressing. thank you and regards from michele

  21. By Bruce Watt September 3rd, 2008 at 7:11 am

    Come on guys you should be wearing a belt bag under your shirt or T’s..will quite safely hold your personal stuff. Wear them even in Europe where pick pockets thrive at all well known tourist attractions; including the Vatican.

  22. By Edward September 3rd, 2008 at 12:02 pm

    HEARD your update with Ali on 774 Wednesday morning. Must have missed a number of other updates as just happened to be up and about before 11 am today.
    In March, 7 of us Victorians travelled from Koh Chang in southern Thailand overland to Phnom Penh. We used two mini-buses —- one on the Thai side, and after the chaotic border crossing at Krong Koh Khong a Cambodian mini-bus overland to the Cambodian capital.
    Like Jon and Jack found the Cambodian roads somewhat dodgey altho’ the Thai authorities have built a massive bridge only a few klicks out of Koh Khong. The driver managed to by-pass a couple of river crossings by paying to use what appeard to be half or two-thirds completed bridges. The river crossings on virtually overloaded ferries with the vehicle we were in only millimetres above river level — and the ferries powered by diesel driven long-tails — were adventures of their own.
    However, our Cambodian mini-bus driver topped the agenda. Frustrated by huge trucks impinging on his side of the road, he’d produce a machete from under his seat, wave it out the open window to the approaching behemoths’ drivers and thus gain a few vital centimetres of road space.
    He vindicated himself by finding our Phnom Penh hotel along the busy riverside strip without any mqajor problems. Then, after a mutually-agreed tip had been dispensed our intrepid driver disappeared into the night once all the bags had been unloaded. Eleven hours on the road, overall, from southern Thailand.
    The enterprising Phnom Penh hotel impresario even negotiated a hotel for us in Siem Reap. Like J and J we found the reliance upon another country’s currency (the US $) startling. The riel is virtually a subsidiary currency, even snorted at by roadside beggars !!

  23. By Martin September 3rd, 2008 at 2:18 pm

    Nice to hear your report on the radio this morning. Sorry about Jack’s note book. Martin

  24. By Natalie September 3rd, 2008 at 3:17 pm

    Hi Guys
    Unfortunately getting robbed is part and parcel of travel nowadays, it seems. Thank goodness it was your passports or money. I feel like I’m hanging on your shirt-tails and taking in all your adventures. It’s fun and cheaper this way. Unlike another comment here, I think you sound like you’re both enjoying everything immensely. Can we have some more photos too.

  25. By Theresa Thomas September 3rd, 2008 at 4:55 pm

    Our son backpacked through Africa with his fiance for 12 months last year. His mantra was “People look to the destination and don’t enjoy the journey” Your recent difficulties are all part of the experience of travelling into the unknown. Hope you can move on with positiveness.
    Reading their blog and now yours and Jack’s makes me realize how lucky we really are.
    We are planning to travel in Laos and Cambodia in October using local transport. Gather from your radio interview this morning it will be an experience! Looking forward to your next installment. Travel safely

  26. By Benny Lompoliuw September 3rd, 2008 at 9:50 pm

    Hi J&J I feel sad that you finally left Indonesia, that is the only country I knew other than Australia. Being an Indonesian I was slightly surprised you weren’t experiencing pickpocket when you were in Indonesia. I kicked my self today for missing your weekly chat with Ally at 10.30 (?).

  27. By Phil Callil September 4th, 2008 at 12:55 am

    I was in Bangkok many moons ago having just left Japan after 14 months. I had my small backpack between my legs at a bank counter and walked off forgetting it. Rushed back 5 minutes later and it was gone. Losing the underwater camera wasn’t too bad but my losing my diary of my 14 months in Japan broke my heart (sob). So Jack, put it down to a bad experience, it coulda been worse in many ways.

  28. By Jen September 4th, 2008 at 8:34 am

    What rotten luck, but you know life wasn’t meant to be easy - we were told that by a certain prime minister many years ago. Try to put the bad thoughts behind you and enjoy what is ahead the important thing is that you are both safe.

    Jen

  29. By David Manz September 4th, 2008 at 9:11 am

    John & Jack, I heard you on Melbourne radio yesterday as you move into Cambodia. I sympathise with your comments about “not enough time too much to see”. We have just done 6000k in Australia in our Toyota Prado with no damage or breakdowns, but feel the same that you would love to just spend longer in some places to take in the full culture and flavour. However there’s always “Ron”. The reason to go back again. Cheers

  30. By Vicki September 4th, 2008 at 11:50 am

    i have learned something lately jon that might be helpful (?) …stay in the moment…

    …moments are captured in the memory and there they can never be stolen away Jack…
    …don’t let go of the fact that it is all about the journey…
    perhaps it is not about the laptop or the diary (although you have my great sympathy there) but about the ~feelings~ in the moment…
    What do these moments tell you? give to you? what do they teach you about the places you are journeying in?
    Explore the experience…
    Sit still sometimes… let go of expectation, of hopes and dreams, of plans and the path you have planned so far…
    and travel the road less traveled… for who knows where it may lead you?

    …and if you sit still enough you might hear the whispers from within… X;-)

  31. By Neil September 4th, 2008 at 2:24 pm

    I am with David, how is the Prado going?

  32. By Natalie September 4th, 2008 at 5:45 pm

    Of course I meant ‘thank goodness it WASN’T your passports or money’. I should read over my rushed entries, shouldn’t I??????

  33. By ANDIIS September 4th, 2008 at 7:29 pm

    Good to hear from yous guys but such a bugger about the diary and hard drive. Still you’ve got us and we’ll remind you in our own way, about the travels and trevails of the Faine men. You should of heard Stubbsie today, god he cracks me up. Anyhoo, better luck with the next bit and all that. Keep your friends close and your diary closer. Andiis.

  34. By Maree September 4th, 2008 at 10:13 pm

    Dear Jon and Jack So sorry about your losses and delays. Things are never as we plan them but I am sure all be be alright because you will make it that way. You are both so good at writing your recall will make up for some of the losses.
    regards
    Maree

  35. By Brian Piddick September 4th, 2008 at 11:55 pm

    At least after this trip you will have the patience of a saint. You can’t hurry the Government locals in any of the Countries and without which you don’t get that precious stamp to proceed to the next window with yet another form that you can’t read. They wonder why nothing happens over there! I laughed to myself hearing about your permutation of not returning the car to Thailand. How to confuse a local, do something that is out of the norm. It does not compute. I’m glad you are persevering and will look back at the end and wonder how the world managed to do any business at all.

  36. By Daryl September 5th, 2008 at 8:07 pm

    Hi Jon [the minister of finance] and Jack, I’ve done some research for you: I have a 2 litre Peugeot diesel which uses [around town] 9.6L per 100k on Cal**x, and only 8.4L per 100k on Sh**l, so, with all the K’s you are driving, use Sh**l when possible and you could save enough money to replace Jacks treasured sunnies. I’m enjoying hearing about your trip on 774 in the mornings.

  37. By Pat September 6th, 2008 at 9:21 am

    Hi John and Jack
    I’ve been reading your posts with interest, and remembering my own travelling times. One of the things I recall is that the political upheavals and local and world issues that occupy one’s focus during ordinary times just disappear from one’s radar screen. The world, Australia, seem to be going mad sometimes. Has it just faded into the mists of irrelevance as you travel? What seemed big becomes small in the light of what’s the reality in other places and for other peoples. Puts things into a different perspective. Are you finding this to be true for you too?
    Cheers,
    Pat

  38. By Pat September 7th, 2008 at 1:44 pm

    Hey Jon

    What did Jack give you for Fathers’ Day?

    Just wondering.

    Pat

  39. By czaba September 7th, 2008 at 1:51 pm

    You were on 774??? Grrr! I missed it. D**n! The morning show is NOT the same without the Faine, so I have been listening to RN instead. Will return to 774 when you return.

  40. By Wally Jablonka September 7th, 2008 at 10:38 pm

    Hi J.J. I have been keeping track of were you are and how you are surviving your big adventure. I have just finished reading Danny & Sandy Travels Around the world with their 2 children.When and were will you be catching up with them. At the moment they are in the U S A in Chicago.It would be interesting to know if any of your fans are checking out Danny and Sandy Site. Keep on treking Wally.

  41. By Natalie September 8th, 2008 at 10:00 am

    Jon, you are really missing a treat (tongue in cheek!!) and that is Red on Dancing with the Stars. Not that you’d watch it if you were here, I’m sure. He’s made it through 2 weeks so far. Just a bit of frippery for you while you’re away from home.

  42. By yourfather September 8th, 2008 at 3:50 pm

    Sounds like you’ve taken the square peg idea of Australian organisation and planning trying to shove it into the round hole of Asian culture.

    Unfortunately not everyone and everything goes to plan in these places - and i guess the thing that took me a while to grasp is, although these people may look grown up, just remember the small %age of them that never even get into high school…

  43. By skin September 9th, 2008 at 1:57 pm

    while travelling I had everything of any value stolen. for a while I was furious and felt a bit lost. but as I continued travelling it became liberating, and without the constant worry I felt for the first and only time in my life absolutely free.

  44. By Vera of Vientiane September 11th, 2008 at 11:01 pm

    Hiya Jacky boy (and Jon). I looked at the photo we took of us and the trusty [unsponsored!] steed and realised I have bribe material in my hands. Quite clearly you did NOT drive to Vientiane. The car is FAR too clean. Admit it, crappy.com paid for you to fly it in on one of the Chinese airplanes we trust our lives to in this country. Come on I know you did. It was that or pay bribes at the border and you wouldn’t do that, would you? Oh, before I forget, remember how we were talking about the fighting cocks I had living under my house and the inappropriate compensation certain unmentionable international organisations are paying impoverished owners when their fighting cocks are culled during avian influenza outbreaks (when they get round to handing over the $)? I found a weird video on youtube when I was researching UXO museums for my next job. sure it will start an argument so I’ll send it to your email to censor first. Oh and a hint a Lao friend gave me: if you accidentally run over a dog on the way to the border (a dead cert), chop it into strips, baste it in paa dek, chillis, sugar and soy and cook it over a grill. Don’t forget the sticky rice (I hardly need to remind you). YUM. Keep the entrails for phuur soup. Better sign off. Hugs, Vera PS Throw your dad’s CDs out the window while you’re still in the mountains - he won’t be able to chase them down the ravines. Environmental pollution v sound pollution? No brainer! ;-)

  45. By margaret October 3rd, 2008 at 2:21 pm

    We are enjoying hearing you on 774 each wed and following your adventures on the internet.
    Many thanks. Through you we are seeing things we would never be able to do ourselves

  46. By Joy Ali October 6th, 2008 at 9:34 am

    Hi,Jon and Jack. Even in your tired state the descriptions of the journey and Jack’s photography are great. I am sure there are many more adventures ahead plus heaps of unusual foods to experience. Keep well.

    Joy Ali

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