
Just one too many litterbugs have thrown their wrappers and bottles out of their bus window on the highway, and I can not stand it anymore. I am going to let off some steam. I know it is impolite to say rude things about your hosts, but the future of our planet is more important than good manners.
From the moment we started, the single overriding impression of Indonesia is of pollution and rubbish. The place is just one great tip. And no one cares. Just one example - we are looked at like we are weirdos because we bother putting empty drink bottles in to rubbish bins.
On ferries, everyone throws styrofoam, plastic, paper - anything - off the side into the sea. No one even looks sheepish about it. It is totally normal. Streets are coated in crap. Drains are choking with plastic. Fires burn everywhere, adding to the most foul exhaust belching into the street from every second truck or bus. Black, dense, choking clouds, soot so thick you can chew the air. Add to the mix the haze from swarms of two-stroke motorbikes.
Why has the worldwide concern about the environment had no apparent impact here? Al Gore where are you? The absence of even any environmental consciousness is glaring.
Today we visited a National Park here in Southern Sumatra. ‘Way Kambas’ hosts five endangered mammals - elephants, Sumatran Tigers, Sun Bears, tapirs and the Sumatran rhino. We were allowed to visit the Sumatran Rhino Sanctuary [www.badak.or.id] where a captive breeding programme is underway with 5 specimens, the largest group in captivity in the world. There are estimated to be only 200 or so Sumatran Rhino left altogther. Each animal here has 10 to 20 hectares to live in, with a pen in one corner for veterinary and other care. We spotted one animal through the jungle, and another called Torgamba [aged 28, 660kg] was in her pen when we visited.

They need help. There is not enough money for equipment or supplies. Dr Dedi Candra showed us around with Dodi Arisandi as our guide. Several heavily padlocked anti-poacher gates are testimony to the efforts they have to go to.

The facilities for the elephants are not so flash. The idea behind the creation of the Elephant Training Centre was to remove wild elephants that were threatening local villages and to train them to work in logging and tourism. Kids go for rides on a few of these beautful creatures, while those not working graze nearby.
We wandered off through the park to an area a few k’s away and found this male elephant munching away all on his own.

We had bought some sugar bananas for lunch, and it seemed polite to share.
