The East Timorese are such beautiful, striking people. They have a pronounced facial structure, high cheekbones and their smile is intoxicating and infectious. The constant white flashes from the Timorese immediately makes one feel welcome. After all that they’ve gone through you have to admire their ability to smile with such warmth and be so welcoming.
The other night over dinner we learnt that illegal cockfights were a popular source of entertainment in Dili. So of course, we organised to go. The cockfights are one of the only sources of entertainment in very poor Timor Leste. Average annual wage is only around $1000US and at these fights there can be thousands of dollars bet on a single fight (that only lasts 30-45 seconds).
We arrived at the arena along with hundreds of participants and gamblers. We were the only Westerners. As the car door opened the sound of roosters ‘kawing’ filled the air. In the empty block there was an elevated wooden boxing ring with a sand floor and a tin roof surrounded by stands. On the far side were overcrowded tables of men playing cards and roulette. There were men coming from every direction caringly clutching huge roosters to their chests. Within minutes the fights began. I was led up into the arena to take photos and have it all explained to me.
A cockfight begins by the two owners preparing their chicken by attaching hideous daggers to the back of the chickens’ legs (pictured).
Upon entering the arena they both give their the entry money to an official and crouch down meters away from one another in the centre of the ring. The chickens peck at each other from their owners’ arms until they are sufficiently antagonised.
At this point the noise from the crowd picks up. The owners retreat to the sides of the ring and then with a shout of encouragement that can hardly be heard above the din, the cocks are released in a fight to the death.
The whole thing doesn’t even last a minute but by god it’s exciting! Within minutes I was ‘ooh’ing and ‘aah’ing with the crowd, jumping around to get a better view. As the dying losers are hoisted out of the ring the crowd is sprayed with their warm blood.
This only adds to the chaotic excitement. All around the ring there are American dollars held up towards the cocks, changing hands, being counted. Every few fights a boy runs into the ring and sweeps the blood and feathers away. More money is gambled, more chickens are sliced open. The people are entertained.
I haven’t even mentioned the massive and overbearing UN presence, the food or the politics. Dili is unique.
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